Fessi Hospitality

Today we are exploring the Medina of Fez with our tour guide Samira. We began the tour at the former governor of Fez’s home, an amazing old, Riad which included a home for the Governor, one for his four wives, and one for his servants (that doesn’t even touch on the alms rooms and other rooms set aside for formal affairs of state). This home takes up a whole block of Fez, and like most of the homes, one unassuming little door leads into wide-open atriums, vaulted ceilings, woodworking, mosaic, and plasterwork craftsmanship of amazing quality. Like many of the homes in Fez, this building was passed down through the family of the former governor (this home has been in his family since the 15th century) and now rests in the hands of a great grandson. However, also like many families, there are only 6 people living in a home meant for hundreds, and it has fallen into disrepair. Apparently several Americans have tried to by the property, but the family will not sell.

From here we went to the Water clock, the Bou Inania Medersa (a lovely and ornate school of higher learning built in the 1300s), to the Chouwara Tanneries, several Fundoqs (these are old hotels that were built in 2 or 3 levels during the height of international trading through Fez), and the ceramics factory outside of town.

The amazing thing about nearly all of these places is that all crafts are done by hand, animals are killed in the streets, skinned, shorn, hides soaked in limestone and guano, dyed in vegetable dyes, dried in the sun, and then made into shoes, jackets, etc…all in the same place. Ulises caught some really good footage of our tour, check out a couple of highlights on the flickr page.

One thing to note, coming from the states where shopping is nearly a national pastime, I must say, we have nothing on the Moroccans when it comes to shopping. Nearly everyone has something to sell, or a partial interest in something that they want you to buy. If I had a job, I would have left here with a whole lot of purchases...instead I think I might leave with a couple more Durham in my pocket.

After an exhaustive all day round about, we went to the Café Clock for a light dinner and some tea, and were thrilled to find out that a band is performing on the roof on Sunday! Live local music is a must see!

-M’a ssalama